Mount Ushba, rising high above Shkheldinskygorge, is considered one of the most popular massifs located in the area of the Main Caucasian Range. Two peaks (the North and South) are divided by the Ushbinsky jumper, called mountaineers "pipe" for constantly walking in it strong winds. The mountain with the legendary past and to this day is enveloped in a cloud of greatness and mystery.
Meaning of the name
The difficulty of the relief, the history of conquest - all thisgave her a very frightening name, which translates as "coven of witches." But even under one name is known Ushba - the mountain-killer. This name was assigned to it from ancient times to the present day. She became famous for her strict temper and unpredictable character. It happens that climbing to the top of simply difficult work grows into a hard struggle for life. Nevertheless, throughout the history of mountaineering and mountain sports Mount Ushba beckons with its splendor. Anyone who has at least once seen this wonderful place, can not forget the wonderful feeling of her charming appearance.
Description
On the mysterious and enticing mountain ranges of the Caucasusopens a wonderful view from the slopes of Elbrus, but Ushba Mountain is wayward and famous for inconstant weather. If the whole of the Caucasus is clear and the tops of all peaks are clearly visible, then this beauty can be shrouded in fog. In order to see it from Elbrus, one often has to wait a few days. The Sabbat of witches does not need popularity.
Но когда вдруг горная царица захочет появиться because of their white robes in the form of clouds, you can enjoy a fascinating wonderful spectacle. Almost two kilometers of pink rocks of granite and gneiss hang over emerald meadows and a glistening diamond glacier. It's unrealistic to imagine even with a very violent imagination. To enjoy all kinds of mountains that Ushba can give, you can only look at it with your own eyes.
Legend
The scarlet walls of the regal mountain have become the main theme of a very marvelous story, which local residents like to tell.
A long time lived a hunter Betkel.His wondrous appearance, youth and bold character attracted luck: he constantly brought prey from the hunt. One day the young man made the decision to go up to the witch of the Sabbat. All the villagers began to persuade him, but they did not succeed. When Betkel approached the glacier itself, a Georgian goddess of Dali's hunt appeared before him. She was very fond of this brave youth, and she did everything to fall in love with him.
A lot of time lived Betkel happy life withhis goddess. But one day, when the clouds dissolved, he looked down and saw the familiar walls of his settlement. After hatching, the young man quietly fled from Dali. In his native village he met the most beautiful girl in Svaneti and decided to marry her. A wild tour came to the wedding celebration from the mountains, and the young man decided to shoot him in honor of the holiday. For a long time he ran after the tour, not thinking about where the road leads.
The difficulty of climbing
Поражает и своими размерами Гора Ушба.The height of its northern peak reaches 4690 m, the south - 4710 m. Both are covered with a thick snow cover. Despite this, more than half of the route to the point of 2700 m is easy to drive by car. Of course, this will require an SUV. The best option is "UAZ", which is not for nothing called a cross-country vehicle. His patency in these places is much better than the famous jeeps. On a very narrow road, large foreign cars simply will not pass.
Far not everyone is subject to Mount Ushba.Climbing it is only possible for experienced climbers, who have already climbed to the top of the highest category of complexity. Climbers have to overcome technically difficult areas of the highlands. You can resort to the services of a good guide or climb yourself.
Если решено штурмовать эти вершины, нужно хорошо To know Ushbinsky icefall, since it is full of cracks. In the periods suitable for the ascent, they do not disappear anywhere, but become more visible. These are the most dangerous places, in connection with this mysterious beauty and got her sad nickname Ushba - the mountain-killer.
Pride of Svaneti
All Svaneti, a mountainous country, differingfree nature, nature itself presented in the form Ushba. In the Central Caucasus there is no greater reason for pride and respect than climbing this inaccessible for a mere mortal mountain. It is for this that many people appreciate such places.
For Russian fans of mountain peaks that haveThe opportunity to see Ushba from another territory, with the northern one, this massif does not have such a mythical halo, as for the inhabitants of Svaneti. Nevertheless, the image of the mountain attracts and simultaneously scares. A huge two-headed peak ruled over the whole territory of the Caucasian range as a ruler. And there is no doubt that she is a queen, tall, stately and unapproachable. This is Ushba Mountain. Georgia can be proud of this creation of nature.
Interesting Facts
Around the massif breaks steep polutorakilometmetrovye walls, which are routes of different levels of complexity. At the moment there are about 500 routes on Ushba.
The easiest, standardized way toNorth Ushba - route category 4a. It passes through the Ushbino plateau, through a place called "pillow", and then three hundred meters along a precipitous slope with an ice-snow surface stretches to the summit crest. Under the snow cover is ice, and if there was a snowstorm before the rise, there is a threat of avalanches. Along the long northern ridge, the double cornices decorated by nature itself are painted at the peak of the mountain. The ascent from the Ushbino plateau to the summit takes about eight hours, and half the time is required for the return journey.
Outlaw
The famous Mount Ushba, where there are manydifficult, but at the same time interesting routes - the wonderful dream of many climbers, is now considered outlawed. There is one very important point. It so happened that the mountain, which is popular all over the planet, is an integral part of the history of the Soviet, and nowadays Russian mountain sports, is now banned, and the ascent to it is considered a grave violation. Nothing can be done - at the moment the situation is such that within the short Southern spur of the Main Caucasus Range the state border is just passing.
