Shirt is a universal kind of men's clothing.It is difficult to imagine a man who does not have at least one shirt. Classic, sports, casual, for a festive exit or a stylish party, the shirt goes to everyone without exception.
First shirts
Men's shirts appeared in the era of antiquity.White color, the most common, symbolized the purity of the soul and body, so the shirt was an obligatory attribute and was only white. Over time, she was transformed from a shirt into a casual dress, which she put on her body. Even for the nobility, for a long time, the shirt was considered a valuable property, was inherited and carefully kept. And in Russia embroideries were handed down from generation to generation - embroidered in the "weak spots" of the shirt carried the strength of the genus and protection against evil spirits.
Types of shirts
Men's shirts, apart from dividing by style, stillhave many differences in cut. So, there are shirts with a collar stand, with a turndown collar, fitted and classic. Slim-fit shirts (models for athletic builders) allow them to be worn without a jacket, under a cardigan or simply with trousers or jeans.
Even cuffs are on shirts under buttons or under cufflinks, French.
Clasps on shirts are also different:
- on the bar - when the shirt is framed by a separate decorative strip of fabric, on which buttons are sewn;
- secret - buttons are sewn on a secret lath, and the hinges are hidden inside the fabric;
- normal - the bar is folded and the buttons are sewn onto the fabric.
Sewing of shirts
It is believed that it is difficult to please only women.However, many men are very demanding in the choice of shirts. It is necessary to like everything - the collar model, buttons, seams, cut. You can please a strong half and sew a shirt yourself.
Work begins with the choice of fabric. Depending on the style of the shirt, the print on the fabric and the quality of the fabric should be selected.
For a classic shirt, expensive,smooth fabrics - cotton, linen, silk, satin. Color preferences are calm, let's say a small picture. But for sports-style shirts, coarse and dense fabrics are appropriate - flannel, fleece, jeans, viscose.
The construction of the pattern of a man's shirt begins with the removal of the measurements.
Removing measurements
In order to make the measurements correctly, the centimeter should pass through the tailoring lines - special directions, the removal of measurements on which will ensure the correct parameters of the product.
OSH - neck girth. The measure is removed at the bottom of the collar. For freedom of fit and proper fit, a finger is laid between the tape and neck.
OG - chest girth. Merka should be removed in the widest part of the chest and back. In this case, the value should be maximum.
OT - girth of the waist.The waistline is the narrowest point between the ribs and the pelvic line. For convenience, a man puts his hands on his belt. In the most comfortable place for him and takes a stand. A ribbon is tied at the waist line, it will be useful for further measurements.
OB - girth of the hips. Men's shirts are longer than women's. For correct fit, the girth of the hips is measured.
SHG - width of the chest. Under the arms for convenience, a man can hold two rulers. The distance from the point to the point where the rulers go under the arm is measured by centimeter.
AL - width of the back. Measured in the same position from the back.
ШП - shoulder width. It is measured from the point of attachment of the shoulder to the neck to the end of the shoulder line.
DR - sleeve length. It is measured from the point of attachment of the shoulder to the neck to the first phalanx of the thumb.
OR - arm girth. Measure the biceps girth.
OZ - wrist girth. The girth of the wrist is measured.
DIZD - the length of the product. It is measured from the protruding vertebra in the cervical region to the gluteal fold, if the shirt is supposed to have a classic cut.
Accident - the length of the waist before. Measured from the point of attachment of the shoulder to the neck to the ribbon at the waist across the chest.
DTS - the length of the waist back. Similar measurement on the back.
Sleeve Pattern
The most time-consuming part in building a shirt pattern is forming the correct sleeve pattern. Pattern men's shirt with long sleeves built on the standard pattern.
The sleeve of the shirt differs from the depth of the neck. The wider the shape, the lower the height of the border.
For the construction parameters are used measurements taken previously.
On a sheet of A3 or A2 format (the main thing is to fit the sleeve, you can even use a newspaper) two perpendicular lines are drawn. In the center there is a point O1.
The height of the soft form for the classic shirt is approximately 8 to 10 cm. A 10 cm section is laid up from the point O1, the point O2 is marked.
To the right of О1 and to the left are deposited segments equal to the arm half-grip = OP / 2. Points P1 and P2 are marked.
The O2 and P1 and P2 points are connected with a smooth line.
Sleeve length is laid down from О2. Marked point M.
Sleeve width is a line perpendicular to the O2M segment. M1M2 = width of the wrist. From M to the right side and to the left half of the wrist circumference is deposited. The lines are connected.
It turns out the pattern sleeves men's shirt. The finished sleeve sits on the armhole.
In order to avoid mistakes, the cut parts of the product are first cleaved with pins on a mannequin or a man, the forms are corrected, and only then they are stitched together.
Cuff
To complete the sleeves build cuff pattern. To do this, draw rectangles, one of which ends with a sharp corner.
The classic cuff on the button in width is equal to the girth of the wrist, and in height it may depend on the preferences of the owner - a height of 5 to 7 cm.
Shirt shirt
A distinctive feature of the shirt is that the cut for the collar is not in the middle, but on the side.
Pattern men's shirt kosovorotki representsis a set of rectangles. To build the pattern, a large rectangle is drawn with a height equal to the length of the product in front, and a width equal to the chest girth. The second rectangle - the back, is constructed in the same way, according to the parameters of the back.
A sleeve is attached next to a large rectangle - the length is equal to the length of the sleeve, the width is the width of the arm. These parts are symmetrical both on the back and on the front of the product.
For freedom of fit, a side small rectangle is built, equal to the width of the side. Measured by centimeter width in the place where the ruler is clamped.
In front of the shirt, an incision is made for the gate on the left or right. It is sheathed with braid or decorative material. The length of the incision is equal to the POG - half-grip of the head.
Dressing shirts
Men's shirts can be decorated in different ways.Concert shirts are embroidered with beads, stones, sequins. For a classic cut, original cuffs or a collar are appropriate. Buttons are sewn both classic, in tone of a slabash, and unusual, color or an original form. The loops are sheathed with colored thread for contrast with the main fabric. As an additional element, the pattern of a men's shirt may contain a breast pocket.
The best decoration for a men's shirt is a properly constructed pattern. Men's shirt or shirt - any product type depends on the quality of sewing and processing.
For example, a correctly selected collar can visually emphasize the cheekbones or make the chin more manly.
