In some cases, from under the front wheelsa characteristic noise is heard, which may indicate that it is necessary to replace the hub bearing. Many motorists immediately spread their hands, they say, how to independently change the bearing of the hub. And they go to the maintenance station. In the case of a new or very expensive car, this may be the most appropriate choice. But if the car is already more than ten years, the bearing can be completely replaced by its own forces.
In order to replace thisdetail, you need a spacer bearing. It consists of a powerful bolt, three thick washers (the largest of which is with a nut), rings of outer diameter. A large washer with a thread is located on the outer dimension of the ring, and the middle is inside it (as compared to the outer diameter of the bearing, it is somewhat smaller). In the absence of a stripper, you can use the tacks and good hammers.
In order not to have to producealignment, it is necessary to remove the shock absorber with the hub and the pivot. In this there is nothing complicated, but the disintegration is still undisturbed.
Detailed replacement of the wheel bearing:
- the wheel nut is unscrewed by a head for 30 and a good collar with a pipe;
- the rod stem nut is lowered under the bonnet;
- the wheel is removed;
- the steering tip is detached from the steering knuckle;
- the brake mechanism is disengaged from the pivot;
- the bolt of fastening to the hub of the brake disc is loosened and removed;
- the fastening is untwisted from the pivoting fistball bearing, pressing the lever displays the rack with a rotary fist to the side of the ball bearing (the shock absorber remains hanging on the top cup, since the nut on the rod of the shock absorber is not completely unscrewed);
- the bolts of the mud guard of the brake disc are loosened, they are removed;
- the shaft of the outer SHRUS is removed from the hub and, holding the column from below, the nut of the shock absorber rod is unscrewed to the end;
- the shock absorber assembly is pulled outa hub and a pivoting fist, the bearing is pressed out from the hub using the same head for 30 and a two-fingered puller (it is possible with the help of mounts and a hammer), the hub is squeezed out of the bearing, taking half of the inner ring of the bearing with it;
- the puller from the pivoting fist extrudes the bearing, in this case the locking rings are removed beforehand;
- the hub is clamped in a vice, using a hammerand the chisel from the hub knocks down the remaining inner cage of the old bearing, preliminary it is done on the cot a few cuts by the bulgarian (the inner clip from this is usually broken from the first blows);
- in some cases, some part of the bearingcan stay on the hub, and to get rid of it, you will have to make efforts (but it is necessary to be very careful, since if the landing surface of the hub is damaged, it will have to be replaced).
Everything is dismantled and removed, all parts are cleaned of dirt and the replacement of the wheel bearing is almost complete, only the assembly remains:
- A circlip is inserted from the inside of the fist;
- the front new hub bearing is press-fitted into the swivel fist with the help of a puller, the larger the bearing is oriented into the swivel fist, into the lock ring until it stops;
- A retaining outer ring is fitted;
- Press the front hub into the bearing as far as it will go.
Next, the car is assembled and put shock absorber stand assembled with a hub and a swivel fist.
Replacing wheel bearings at home takes a maximum of 3-4 hours.
